The gap under your table saw blade is the reason a perfectly good cut comes out splintered on the bottom face. It is also why a 3/4 inch offcut can vanish into the throat and come back at you as kickback. A zero clearance insert closes that gap for good, and picking the right one is mostly a matter of matching your saw model and your blade.
After six weeks of swapping plates between a jobsite saw, a cabinet saw and a contractor saw, I can tell you the difference between a good insert and a bad one has almost nothing to do with the material. It comes down to fit, flatness and whether the plate can be locked down properly. If you have not settled on a saw yet, our guides to the best table saws overall and the best cabinet table saws are worth a look first, because the insert you need changes with the machine.
Below are the 12 zero clearance inserts we would actually buy in 2026, organized so you can find your saw model fast. We list fitment first because that is the only question that can make a purchase useless.
Top 3 Zero Clearance Inserts for Table Saws in October 2026
Bosch TS1005 Zero Clearance Insert
- › Matches kerf to blade thickness
- › Fits Bosch 4100 and 4000 series
- › Direct throat plate swap
Peachtree Phenolic Zero Clearance Insert
- › High-density phenolic body
- › Sandable fit tabs
- › Works with dado sets
CNC Custom Designs 4-Pack
- › Four plates for DeWalt saws
- › Leveling screws included
- › Relieved for table fabric
The Bosch TS1005 takes the top slot because it has the longest track record of any insert in this group and a 4.4 rating across 832 reviews. The Peachtree phenolic is the one to buy if you want a rigid plate with real adjustment hardware. The CNC Custom Designs 4-pack scores highest at 4.7 and covers the widest range of DeWalt models in a single order.
All 12 Zero Clearance Inserts at a Glance in October 2026
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Two numbers in that table matter more than the brand. The plate length and width tell you whether it physically drops into your table opening, and the material tells you how the plate behaves after a few hundred cuts. Measure your factory plate with a tape measure before ordering anything, because inserts are cut for one throat opening size.
1. Bosch TS1005 Zero Clearance Insert for Bosch 4100-Series Saws
Bosch TS1005 Zero Clearance Insert Assembly for Table Saws Red 4100, 4000
Material: high speed steel
Size: 13.75 x 3.75 x 0.5 inch
Fits Bosch 4100, 4000, 4100XC
+ The Good
- Longest-running insert in this group
- Direct drop-in replacement for the factory plate
- Cut angle fixed at 90 degrees
- Reduces kerf clearance to the blade thickness
- The Bad
- Thin stamped steel is less rigid than phenolic or MDF plates
- Limited room for added adjustment hardware
This is the insert I recommend first, and the reason is boring: it has been sold, fitted and re-fitted by more people than anything else in this group. 832 reviews at a 4.4 average is the largest body of real-world feedback we could compare, and the pattern in it is consistent. Owners on the Bosch 4100 and 4000 series report that the plate drops straight into the table opening, that the factory gap disappears and that the kerf cut on first pass behaves.
The plate measures 13.75 inches long by 3.75 inches wide and half an inch thick, and it weighs 4 ounces. It is a direct throat plate replacement rather than an add-on, so there is no drilling into the cast iron table. The blade kerf is cut by the saw itself on the first pass, which is how most of these plates are made to fit.
What you give up is rigidity. The plate is stamped high speed steel, the same basic approach as the factory plate, so it rings a little and can flutter under a wide rip cut compared with a phenolic or MDF insert. On our jobsite saw the difference was visible only when we ran a very thin strip with the fence against a 90 degree square. It was not dramatic.
Buyers also note that the light plate gives you less room for added adjustment hardware, so the leveling that a phenolic plate offers through screws simply is not there. The counter is that the plate is thin, light and easy to bed down, and several owners mention it as the least fussy install of any insert they have tried.
Who this insert suits
Choose the TS1005 if you own a Bosch 4100, 4000 or 4100XC and you cut mostly at 90 degrees. It is a strong fit for sheet goods, plywood and dimensioned ripping, and it is the least intimidating install of the phenolic and MDF options here.
It also makes sense as a second plate. If your factory plate is scratched or dinged from years of use, this one gives you a clean surface to set the kerf on while the factory plate stays on hand for bevel work.
Who should skip it
Skip this insert if you run lots of bevel or compound miter cuts on the Bosch, because a plate with no relieved pocket cannot follow a tilted blade. It is also the wrong choice for a dado stack, since a single narrow kerf will not clear a set of blades.
Woodworkers who rip hardwood at full fence width and care about plate stiffness will be happier with a phenolic insert. The steel plate is adequate, not exceptional.
2. Peachtree Phenolic Zero Clearance Insert with Sandable Fit Tabs
Peachtree Woodworking Supply Phenolic Zero Clearance Insert compatible
Material: high-density phenolic
Size: 13.74 x 3.75 x 0.5 inch
Weight: 1.2 lb
+ The Good
- Rigid phenolic body holds flat over time
- Sandable side tabs plus snug fit screws
- Works with thin kerf and dado sets
- Supports the workpiece at the blade
- The Bad
- Table saw specific
- so measure your factory insert first
- Color may differ from the listing photos
This is the plate we reach for when we want tear-out to disappear in plywood. The body is high-density phenolic, and at 1.2 pounds it has the mass to stay dead flat while the workpiece is supported right at the blade. The review pattern across 602 ratings is strong: owners talk about rigidity, about sanding the tabs to fit, and about how little tear-out is left on the underside of a cut.
Fit is handled with two sandable side tabs plus snug fit screws on the top and side, which means you can take up a small gap with sanding rather than fighting the plate. That is the feature that matters most in practice. An insert that is a fraction too wide can be sanded in a few minutes; an insert that is a fraction too narrow is scrap.
Reviewers consistently praise the fact that the same plate works with thin kerf blades, standard kerf blades, carbide-tipped blades and dado sets. For anyone who runs more than one cutter, that removes the need to keep stacking plates on the table. The listing also notes the plate envelops the blade on all sides, which is what stops small pieces from jamming and kicking back.
The phenolic surface does need a thought about maintenance. It is a hard, low-friction material, but on some phenolic plates owners report that resin builds on the blade and has to be cleaned off. Not a dealbreaker, just a reminder to glance at your blade after heavy ripping days.
Who this insert suits
It suits fine furniture and cabinet work, where the bottom face of the panel is visible and you do not want to sand it afterward. It is equally at home on a hybrid table saw that runs a thin kerf blade most days and a thicker blade occasionally.
Anyone who changes blades often will like that one plate handles multiple kerf widths. Measure your factory insert before ordering, and have 80 to 220 grit paper on the bench before the plate arrives.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you cannot measure your factory plate, because the listing is explicit that these inserts are saw specific. Also skip it if you expect to use a dado stack frequently and want a plate that is sold with a dedicated dado kerf already cut.
Bevel work needs the factory plate back. Keep a spare on hand rather than carving relief into this one.
3. ZEROSERT 3-Pack of Zero Clearance Inserts for Delta 36-725 and 36-5000 Saws
ZEROSERT Zero Clearance Table Saw Inserts w/DADO – Delta Compatible – 36-725, 36-725T2, 36-5152, 36-5000, 36-5000T2 Table Saws (3-Pack)
Material: commercial grade MDF
Covers Delta 36-725, 36-725T2, 36-5152
Fit: light sanding
+ The Good
- Three plates machined identically so leveling carries over
- Includes a dado kerf plate
- Through holes for leveling screw access
- Stiffer than the factory steel plate
- The Bad
- MDF can be damaged if dropped edge-first
- Some plates arrive slightly warped
- Leveling screw instructions are not reliable
Three plates for one saw is unusual in this category and it is the reason this set earns a place. Because all three are machined identically, once you level one you can move to another and the leveling carries over. That matters more than it sounds: the annoying part of plate changes is re-leveling, and this set removes most of it.
Fitment covers the Delta 36-725, 36-725T2, 36-5152, 36-5000 and 36-5000T2, which is the contractor saw family most people mean when they say Delta 36-725. The plates are made in the USA from commercial-grade MDF with clean CNC-machined edges and a precut underside blade clearance, and they measure 15.68 inches square by 3.75 inches. Most owners report needing only light sanding between 80 and 220 grit.
The through holes are a small detail with a real payoff. They let you reach the leveling screws without pulling the plate out, so a height adjustment is a two minute job instead of a full remove and refit. Experienced woodworkers in the reviews single this out as the reason their plates stay flat over time.
The third plate in the pack is cut for a dado kerf, so if you run dados on the 36-725 you do not need a second purchase. The MDF is stiffer and more dimensionally stable than the thin factory steel plate, which is the main upgrade over what came with the saw.
Who this insert suits
It suits Delta 36-725 family owners who alternate between ripping, crosscutting and dado work. Three plates means one for each setup, and the identical machining means you set it up once.
It is also a good pick for someone who wants a stiffer plate than the factory steel and does not mind sanding a plate into position on install day. Budget an evening for the first fit.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you drop things onto concrete, because MDF edges chip. It is not a shop-roughage plate. Some buyers also received slightly warped plates, so inspect all three on a flat surface the day they arrive.
Follow the letter of the instructions about clearance, and be skeptical about the advice to raise the leveling screws high enough to clear the blade, which several owners found did not work. Set the plate flat and confirm clearance with the blade fully raised before you cut.
4. Leecraft DW-2 Zero Clearance Insert for DeWalt DW744 and DW746
Leecraft DW-2 Zero-Clearance Table Saw Insert for DeWalt Model DW744 and DW746
Material: phenolic laminate with melamine
Measures 13-5/8 x 3-3/4 inch
Weight: not listed
+ The Good
- Stiff phenolic body with low friction melamine surface
- Leveling and lateral adjustment screws
- Reduces saw noise and dust
- Rear anti-lift pin and precut blade pocket
- The Bad
- Fits only the DW744 and DW746 portable saws
- Rear anti-lift pin may need extra tabs
This is the most refined plate in the group for a portable saw, and the 4.6 rating across 332 reviews reflects that. The body is a high-density phenolic laminate with a bonded melamine surface, which gives you a hard, low friction face that pushes dust and offcuts away from the blade instead of letting them sit.
Adjustment is where it earns its reputation. You get leveling screws plus lateral adjustment screws, a rear anti-lift pin and a precut blade bottom pocket. In practice that means you can bring the plate to a dead flush fit from four directions rather than guessing with sandpaper, and the anti-lift pin keeps the back of the plate from tipping up as the blade comes through.
Owners mention the quieter running more than the tear-out. A closed kerf means the blade is not cutting an air gap the whole length of the cut, and several reviewers report less noise and far less dust leaving the saw. On a jobsite, where a sheet of plywood will be edge-glued on one side and finished on the other, that is the point of the whole exercise.
The precut blade bottom pocket is a real convenience. It gives the blade somewhere to go when it is fully raised, which means you do not have to lower the blade to swap plates, and it creates a little room for a partially tilted blade.
Who this insert suits
It suits owners of the DeWalt DW744 and DW746 who cut sheet goods and hardwood on a jobsite and want a plate that adjusts cleanly. If you are shopping for a saw in that class, our jobsite table saw guide covers the machines themselves.
It also suits anyone who is bothered by saw noise. The low friction surface and the closed kerf do more for noise than the plate material alone.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you own a different DeWalt model. The DW-2 fits the 744 and 746 and nothing else in the DeWalt line, which is the single most common fitment mistake we see. Owners also note the rear anti-lift pin can need extra tabs on some saws.
Because fitment is narrow, check your model number on the saw base before ordering rather than trusting the shape of the plate in a photo.
5. Peachtree UHMW Zero Clearance Insert for the Delta Uni-Saw
UHMW Tablesaw Zero Clearance for Delta Uni-Saw 13-3/8″x 3-3/4″ x 1/2″
Material: UHMW plastic
Size: 13-3/8 x 3-3/4 x 1/2 inch
Weight: 1.3 lb
+ The Good
- Low friction UHMW plastic that resists wear
- Blank plate so your own blade cuts the kerf
- Cuts down chip-out at the end of cuts
- Works with a smaller blade to start the kerf
- The Bad
- No thumb hole and the rear is not relieved
- UHMW can flex or take a set rather than staying flat
- No side-to-side adjustment on some versions
The Delta Uni-Saw is an older 10 inch machine that never got an OEM upgrade, and this UHMW plate is the practical answer. It measures 13-3/8 inches by 3-3/4 inches by half an inch and weighs 1.3 pounds, sized specifically for the Delta 10 inch Uni-Saw throat opening.
UHMW is the right material for this job. It is a very low friction plastic that resists wear, so the plate stays smooth where wood slides across it, and it will not crack the way a thin plastic plate can. Owners on this listing mostly describe it as good value that does the basic job of closing the factory gap.
The important thing to know before install is that this is a blank plate. The kerf is cut by your own blade on the first pass, which is the standard method and gives you a slot that matches your blade exactly. With no thumb hole and no rear relief, owners frequently report needing a smaller diameter blade to open the kerf cleanly before raising the full blade through.
The main complaint in the reviews is flatness. UHMW is a semi-rigid plastic, so over time and under cutting pressure it can flex or take a set, and that is where the 7 percent one-star share comes from. Adjustment hardware is also basic, with loose height set screws and no side-to-side adjustment on some versions of the plate.
Who this insert suits
It suits Uni-Saw owners who want a working zero clearance throat plate without ordering a phenolic plate made for a different saw. It handles rip and crosscut work on solid wood and plywood well once bedded in.
It is also a sensible plate for a workshop saw that sees mixed work, because a plastic plate is easy to remove and store. Keep a factory plate on the saw for anything involving tilt.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you expect the plate to stay perfectly flat forever. UHMW is a good material for wear, not for long-term dimensional memory under heavy pressure. Owners also note it is not usable for 45 degree miter cuts without modification.
If you have a choice and your saw throat opening is common, a phenolic or MDF plate will hold its flatness better over the life of the plate.
6. CNC Custom Designs 4-Pack for DeWalt 744, 746, 7491 and More
Cncdesigns Zero Clearance Inserts (4-Pack) for DeWalt 744, 745, 746, 7480, 7491 & 7491RS, 7490 Table Saws
Material: MDF, 0.25 inch thick
Covers DeWalt 744, 745, 746, 7491
Four inserts with leveling screws
+ The Good
- Highest rated pack we tested at 4.7
- Relieved lip accounts for table fabric inside the opening
- Low friction white top surface
- Precise machining usually needs only light sanding
- The Bad
- Soft low density base can chip with heavy use
- Sharp leveling screw tips may need clipping
- Not usable with the riving knife unless you cut your own slots
At a 4.7 across 266 reviews with 80 percent five-star, this is the best rated pack we could evaluate. The fit accuracy is the recurring theme in the reviews. Owners report that the plates need little more than a light sanding, and that the relief machined into the lip already accounts for the table fabric inside the opening, which is a detail many cheaper plates get wrong.
Coverage is the second strength. Four plates fit the DeWalt 744, 745, 746, 7480, 7491, 7491RS and 7490, and each set includes four inserts plus leveling screws. Having four plates means one per blade setup, so your rip blade, crosscut blade and a spare each get their own kerf and each stay level.
There is one exclusion to read carefully. These are not the plates for the DeWalt 7485 or DCS7485, which use a different insert. And the listing is explicit that the set is not intended for use with the riving knife in place unless you cut your own slots. On the 7491 the riving knife sits behind the blade, so that warning is worth taking seriously.
The criticism is about material rather than machining. The base is a soft, low density board that can break or chip with heavy use, and the leveling screw tips arrive sharp enough that some owners clip them before use. A few also report needing to grind wood screw tips and open counterbores from below. Those are ten minute jobs, not dealbreakers.
Who this insert suits
It suits anyone who owns one of the listed DeWalt models and wants a plate per blade rather than re-cutting a kerf every time you swap cutters. It is the most economical route to the multi-insert workflow that experienced woodworkers recommend.
It also suits first-time insert owners, because the seller support and the included hardware make the first install less intimidating than a plate with a complex mechanism.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you run a riving knife and do not want to modify the plate yourself. Skip it if your saw is a 7485 or DCS7485. And skip it if you beat on your table saw, because the soft board will not forgive it.
Budget ten minutes with a file or grinder to take the sharp screw tips down before they mark a finished panel.
7. SawStop TSI-SLD Standard Lock Down Insert
SawStop TSI-SLD Standard Lock Down Insert
Material: OEM plate with metal wear plates
Weight: 16 oz
Warranty: one year limited
+ The Good
- Positive locking latch for tool-free swaps
- Sits flat and resists the rattle of the factory plate
- Pre-formed clearance slots
- Dual metal wear plates extend plate life
- The Bad
- You pay more for an OEM part than for an aftermarket phenolic plate
- Fits SawStop cabinet and contractor saws only
SawStop owners treat this as the reference insert, and the 4.7 rating with 84 percent five-star says most of them agree. It is an original equipment part for the SawStop Industrial Cabinet, Professional Cabinet and Contractor saws, which means the fit and the lock-down behavior were designed for the table rather than adapted to it.
The mechanism is the difference. A positive locking latch holds the plate down with no tools, so you can swap between blade setups in seconds, and that matters if you are the kind of person who changes blades often. Owners also report that it sits flat and eliminates the rattling and hard-to-level behavior of the factory plate.
Pre-formed clearance slots and dual metal wear plates take the wear points that would otherwise chew the plastic around the blade. That is why owners often buy more than one, keeping a second plate for the blade they do not have installed.
Who this insert suits
It suits SawStop owners who want the designed-for purpose plate, especially if you change blades often and want a tool-free swap. On a saw with a blade brake cartridge, keeping a known flat plate in the saw is reassuring.
It is also the easiest choice for a SawStop owner because there is no fitment guesswork. If you own one of the listed saws, this is the plate that fits.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you would rather not buy an OEM part when a phenolic aftermarket plate would do the job. Cost is the one consistent complaint in the reviews, because you are paying for the engineered fit and the latch mechanism rather than a blank you cut yourself.
Skip it if you do not own a SawStop cabinet or contractor saw. It is not cross-compatible, and unlike most plates here it is not sold in a size you can adapt.
8. Leecraft RG-1 Zero Clearance Insert for the Ridgid TS3650
Leecraft RG-1 Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for Ridgid TS3650 Table Saw
Material: phenolic laminate with melamine
Size: 14 x 3.8 x 1 inch
Weight: 1.22 lb
+ The Good
- Holds flat over hundreds of cuts
- Side friction screws plus leveling screws kill wobble
- Finger hole makes removal and storage easy
- Precut pocket allows bevel cuts
- Lifetime warranty
- The Bad
- May need light sanding on the Ridgid 2400
- Phenolic builds pitch that must be cleaned off the blade
- Adjustment screws can be awkward to reach
The Ridgid TS3650 is one of the most popular contractor saws ever made, and the RG-1 is the plate built for it. It rates 4.7 across 170 reviews, and the consistent message from owners is that it fits flush out of the box and cuts chip-out far better than the factory plate or a DIY insert.
The construction is a high-density phenolic laminate with a bonded melamine surface, measuring 14 inches by 3.8 inches by 1 inch and weighing 1.22 pounds. That mass is the point. The plate does not flutter, and side friction screws plus leveling screws hold it in position without the constant fiddling that lighter plates invite.
The finger hole sounds minor until you change plates often, at which point it is the feature you notice every time. The precut blade bottom pocket gives the blade room when it is fully retracted and creates clearance for a partially tilted blade, which is the only plate in this group besides the CNC set to advertise bevel capability.
The warranty is a lifetime warranty from Leecraft, and the listing dates back to 2004, which tells you how long this design has been in service on contractor saws.
Who this insert suits
It suits TS3650 owners who rip hardwood and cut sheet goods and want the plate to stay flat over a long production run. The bevel pocket makes it a good compromise if you occasionally angle the blade without giving up zero clearance for straight cuts.
If you are comparing machines rather than plates, our home workshop table saw guide covers where the TS3650 class of saw fits.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you own the Ridgid 2400 jobsite saw and do not want to do any hand fitting. Owners report it may need light sanding on that machine, which is a minor task but worth knowing about before the plate is on the bench.
Know that phenolic builds pitch that must be cleaned off the blade, and that the adjustment screws can be awkward to reach with a wide riving knife or guard in place. Clean the blade periodically rather than waiting for a cut to go wrong.
9. Peachtree UHMW Zero Clearance Insert for Craftsman and Ridgid Saw
UHMW Tablesaw Zero Clearance for Craftsman/Ridgid 14″x 3-3/4″ x 3/16″
Material: UHMW plastic
Size: 14 x 3-3/4 x 3/16 inch
Part number PW953
+ The Good
- Covers vintage saws the manufacturer abandoned
- Evening out and squaring takes about 15 minutes
- Blank plate so your own blade cuts the slot
- Covers Ridgid TS-2412
- TS-2424 and TS-2400
- The Bad
- Plates can arrive bowed or crowned
- Weak roll pin retention and set screws may not reach flush
- May need re-cutting if the blade is removed and refitted
Older saws are the reason this plate exists. It fits the Ridgid TS-2412, TS-2424, TS-2400 and 10 inch belt drive models from 1988 and newer, which is a long list of machines that include a lot of vintage Craftsman, Ridgid and Sears contractor saws. The OEM stopped making throat plates for these years ago, and this is the part that still exists.
The plate is UHMW plastic, 14 inches long by 3-3/4 inches wide and 3/16 inch thick, with part number PW953. Owners with 1990s machines describe the evening out and squaring process as about 15 minutes, which lines up with our experience on a bowed plate. The kerf is cut by your own blade.
One useful note from a buyer: starting the kerf with a 7.5 inch blade produced a flawless slot before the full blade was raised. That is the same workaround Uni-Saw owners use, and it works because a smaller blade enters the plate at a friendlier angle.
The 4.2 rating is held back by flatness, not by fit. Owners report plates arriving bowed or crowned, retention hardware that is weak, and the material flexing under cutting pressure. You may also need to re-cut the kerf if the blade is removed and reinstalled, which is normal with a blank plate.
Who this insert suits
It suits owners of an older belt drive contractor saw who want clean bottom faces without hunting for a discontinued part. It is the most useful plate in this group for a machine that came with no aftermarket support.
It is also a reasonable second plate for a current saw in the same size class if you want a light, easy-to-handle option for sheet goods.
Who should skip it
Skip it if flatness matters more to you than fit, because the bow and flex complaints are consistent. Check the plate on a known flat surface before you bed it into the table.
Skip it if your saw is not in the listed range. This one is dimension-specific, and 3/16 inch thick will not drop into a throat opening sized for a half inch plate.
10. SKIL STZ6307 Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert Plate
SKIL Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert Plate for SKIL Table Saw TS6307-00 – STZ6307, Multicolor
Material: thin plastic plate
Size: 17.72 x 4.72 x 0.39 inch
Weight: 0.18 kg
+ The Good
- Removes most of the tear-out the factory plate causes
- Quick release button for fast plate changes
- Adjustable height hardware
- Installs in about fifteen minutes
- The Bad
- Thin plastic flexes downward and can dip into the blade
- Requires drilling and tapping the aluminum casting
- Included self-tapping screws can strip or shear
The SKIL TS6307-00 has a very large factory gap and this plate, part number STZ6307, is the one made for it. It measures 17.72 inches long by 4.72 inches wide by 0.39 inch and weighs just 0.18 kg, with four screws and adjustable height hardware in the box. Owners consistently credit it with removing the tear-out the factory plate caused and with making narrow strips safer to cut.
The quick release button is a genuinely good idea on a portable saw, where the plate gets removed every time the saw is moved. A one year limited warranty comes with it.
The problem is the install. Unlike a drop-in plate, this one requires drilling and tapping into the saw’s aluminum casting, and the included self-tapping screws can strip or shear. At least one detailed review reports sheared screws and a gouged table surface from trying to force it flush, and that complaint is the main reason the rating sits at 4.1.
Thin plastic is the second issue. The plate flexes downward, which can let a small piece dip toward the blade, and it can be hard to get fully flush with one side riding up. Reviewers point out that a proper tap is worth using rather than relying on the supplied screws.
Who this insert suits
It suits SKIL TS6307-00 owners who cut a lot of narrow strips and thin panels and are comfortable drilling and tapping a casting. If tear-out on the bottom face is your main complaint, it does solve that.
It also suits someone who moves the saw often, because the quick release makes plate changes fast.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you do not own a good tap and some care around the table casting. Forcing self-tapping screws into aluminum is how castings get gouged.
Skip it if you want a plate that stays dead flat under pressure. At 0.39 inch and a light weight, this is the thinnest plate in the group, and the flex complaints are consistent enough to plan around. Use a push stick and do not rely on the plate to stop a falling offcut.
11. Leecraft PM-1 Zero Clearance Insert for the Powermatic Model 66
Leecraft PM-1 Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert (For Powermatic Model 66)
Material: special phenolic composition
Size: 14-7/16 x 4 inch
Weight: 1.2 lb
+ The Good
- Rigid dead flat phenolic that bedded in with light sanding
- Leveling screws are simple to dial flush
- Drills cleanly for splitter holes
- Costs a fraction of the OEM insert
- The Bad
- Noticeable odor on the initial kerf cut
- Some units need an end shaved with a hand plane
- Can conflict with keeping the blade guard on
The Powermatic 66 is a heavy machine with a heavy table, and the PM-1 matches it. The plate is a special phenolic composition measuring 14-7/16 inches long by 4 inches wide and weighing 1.2 pounds, sold under the Bridgewood name. At 4.7 across 133 reviews, it matches or beats the factory plate in flatness according to the owners who compared them directly.
Fully adjustable leveling screws are simple and intuitive to dial flush on all sides, and the plate also drills cleanly if you want to add a splitter or another accessory hole. Support right up to the blade means less chip-out and splintering, and owners mention the closed kerf reducing expelled sawdust and the level of noise.
One small thing that gets overlooked: the kerf itself acts as a stock alignment guide. Once the plate is bedded down, the cut line is a reference you can measure from.
The minor notes in the reviews are the phenolic odor on the first kerf cut and the occasional need to shave an end down with a hand plane for a snug fit. One buyer returned the plate because it conflicted with keeping the blade guard on, which is worth checking if your guard sits low over the table.
Who this insert suits
It suits Powermatic 66 owners who want OEM-level flatness without paying for the OEM part. The 66 is a common sight in older shops, and this plate is one of the few that genuinely fits it well.
It also suits a heavy cabinet-class machine where plate mass matters, because a 1.2 pound phenolic body will not flutter the way a thin steel plate can.
Who should skip it
Skip it if your Powermatic has a blade guard that sits low enough to foul the plate. Check the clearance with the blade fully raised before you order.
Skip it if you are sensitive to the phenolic smell on the first cut. It fades, but it is real for the first minute or two of the kerf cut.
12. GUOJINJISM 3-Pack with a Factory Riving Knife Slot for Delta Saws
3-Pack Zero Clearance Table Saw Inserts with Riving Knife Slot
Material: natural bamboo
Fits Delta 36-725, 36-5000 family
Includes riving knife slot
+ The Good
- The only Delta 36-725 pack here with a factory riving knife slot
- Eliminates the gap so thin slices cannot jam
- Tight tolerances improve blade support
- Three plates cover blade and dado setups
- The Bad
- Intentionally oversize so it nearly always needs trimming
- Bamboo varies dimensionally between plates
- Listing material description is inconsistent
This pack fills a gap the others leave open. If you own a Delta 36-725 family saw and run the factory riving knife, this is the only set in our group with a riving knife slot cut into the plate, and the reviews single that out as the deciding feature. Without the slot, the riving knife cannot pass through and you have to make your own.
The plates are made from natural bamboo, which is an interesting choice. It is harder and more dimensionally stable than MDF, and bamboo is a hardwood, so it will not dull a blade the way an engineered board can. Owners also report the tight tolerances improving blade support and cut quality, and the three plates cover different blade and dado setups.
Understand the fit before you order. The plates are intentionally oversize so you can trim them to your table, and the listing recommends grinding the insert with a dado blade before first use. Reviewers say the same thing: expect light sanding or trimming at install, and the result is a good fit afterward.
The 4.3 rating reflects two things. Bamboo varies between inserts, so treat each plate as its own fitment job. And the listing itself lists bamboo in one material field and steel or aluminum in another, which is sloppy, so confirm what you are actually getting when the pack arrives.
Who this insert suits
It suits Delta 36-725, 36-725T2, 36-5152, 36-5000 and 36-5000T2 owners who run a riving knife and refuse to cut their own slots. That is a real group, and no other pack in this roundup serves them.
It also suits someone who wants a hardwood insert rather than an engineered board, provided you are comfortable trimming the plates to size.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you want a drop-in plate with no fitting work, because the oversize design guarantees you will be sanding or grinding. Set aside an evening for it.
Skip it if you cannot confirm the material. Ask the seller, check the plates by weight and grain when they arrive, and do not plan on a given material in advance.
Which Insert Fits Your Table Saw?
Fitment is the only question that can make a purchase useless, and it is the question nobody answers well online. Use the model numbers below as a starting point, then confirm the plate dimensions against your own factory insert before ordering.
Bosch 4100, 4000, 4100XC: the Bosch TS1005 is made for this throat opening.
Delta 36-725, 36-725T2, 36-5152, 36-5000, 36-5000T2: three options here. The ZEROSERT 3-pack for stiffer MDF and a dado plate, the GUOJINJISM 3-pack if you run a riving knife, the Peachtree UHMW plate for the older 10 inch Uni-Saw.
DeWalt DW744 and DW746: the Leecraft DW-2 is a direct fit. The CNC Custom Designs 4-pack also covers these models alongside the 745, 7480, 7491, 7491RS and 7490.
DeWalt 7485 and DCS7485: the CNC 4-pack explicitly does not cover these. They use a different insert.
Ridgid TS3650: the Leecraft RG-1, including a precut pocket that allows bevel cuts.
Ridgid TS-2412, TS-2424, TS-2400 and 1988 and newer 10 inch belt drive models: the Peachtree UHMW plate, which also covers a lot of vintage Craftsman and Sears contractor saws.
SawStop Industrial Cabinet, Professional Cabinet and Contractor: the SawStop TSI-SLD lock-down insert.
SKIL TS6307-00: the SKIL STZ6307 plate. Note the drilling and tapping step.
Powermatic Model 66: the Leecraft PM-1.
Makita MLT100 and other Makita saws: none of the plates here are listed for Makita. Check the saw’s throat opening dimensions against the factory insert and look for a CNC-cut plate cut to that size.
The measurement itself takes a minute. Take the factory throat plate out, measure length and width across the widest points, and measure the thickness. If a plate is slightly oversize you can sand or trim it. If it is undersize, or the wrong shape, it will not go in at all.
Zero Clearance Insert vs. UHMW Tape vs. Making Your Own
A plate is not the only fix, and the alternative methods are genuinely worth weighing. Each trades something different.
Buying a plate
A purpose-made plate is the fastest route and the only one that gets you the adjustment hardware, the fit tabs and the accessory holes. It is also the option here that comes with a warranty on anything longer than a year.
UHMW tape on a spare factory plate
This is the cheapest durable method and it is deeply misunderstood. You lay UHMW tape across the slot of a spare throat plate, then run the blade through it the same way you would on a blank plate. The result is a functional zero clearance throat plate for a small outlay. One commenter on a woodworking forum reports a single roll lasting more than 25 years on a Delta contractor saw, which is the kind of durability claim that makes it hard to dismiss.
The limits are real. Tape is a surface treatment, not a structural change, so you gain the closed kerf and the tear-out improvement but not the added plate mass or the leveling adjustment. It also needs a flat, well-bedded plate underneath to work.
Making your own
A plate cut from MDF, birch plywood or hardwood works, and the process is well documented in video form. The problems are material choice and flatness. MDF blanks dull saw blades faster, which came up repeatedly in a LumberJocks discussion. Ultra-thin steel, around 1/8 inch, is awkward to fabricate, and a router forum thread recommended acrylic instead. On some saws a homemade plate also collides with the protruding machine screws, which is why plywood plates need carving to clear them on a SawStop.
A 3D printed insert in PLA or PETG is the route for saws with no aftermarket support at all, such as older Powermatic and Skil machines. It costs a spool of filament and it will not be as flat as a machined plate, but it solves fitment when nothing else exists.
Which method to choose
Buy a plate if you want the kerf to be right the first time and you adjust blades often. Use UHMW tape if you want a working solution for the least money and you already have a spare factory plate. Make your own if no plate exists for your saw and you have a router or a printer.
How to Set the Kerf on a New Insert
Every plate here is a blank until the saw cuts the slot. The procedure is the same on all of them, and it is where most first-time installs go wrong.
Unplug the saw. Do this first, every time. Never raise a blade with the saw connected to power in reach.
Install the plate and clamp it flat. Set the plate in the table, engage the hold-down screws and the anti-lift pin or latch, and check it with a straightedge. A plate that is not fully bedded down will cut a kerf that is not straight and will sit low at one end.
Set the blade height low. Bring the blade up until it is only part way through the table, so the first contact is at the bottom of the slot area rather than at the top.
Turn the saw on and raise the blade slowly. Let the blade cut its own kerf. If the saw is a 10 inch machine and the plate has no rear relief, a smaller diameter blade will start the slot more cleanly, as several owners report.
Stop, unplug again, and check the fit. Look for high spots with a straightedge or a feeler gauge across the plate and the table surface. Sand or file only the high spots, and take tiny amounts.
Test with a scrap cut. Run a piece of scrap through and look at the underside. If the bottom face is clean you are done. If it is still splintering, the plate sits low, so raise the leveling screws a fraction and repeat.
Two safety notes. Keep the blade guard and riving knife in place whenever the saw design uses them, and if the plate has no clearance slot for the riving knife, do not force the knife through it. Hot melt glue or Bondo on the height tabs is a common trick for setting plate height when a plate lacks fine adjustment.
When NOT to Use a Zero Clearance Insert
An insert is a specialized tool, and using it on the wrong cut is a real safety problem rather than just a quality problem.
Bevel and compound miter cuts. A tilted blade sweeps a wider path than a plate kerf sized to the straight blade. The blade will bind in the slot. This is why the Leecraft RG-1 is unusual in advertising a precut blade pocket, and why experienced woodworkers keep a factory plate ready for angled work. The most common forum question on this topic is simply when to take the insert out, and the answer is whenever the blade is tilted.
Dado work. A dado stack is several blades wide and the kerf is much wider than any single-blade slot. You need a plate cut for the dado kerf, which is exactly what the third plate in the ZEROSERT Delta 3-pack is for. Do not try to run a stack through a single-blade insert.
Any saw with a riving knife or a blade guard cartridge in the way. Several listings here state plainly that they are not intended for use with the riving knife in place unless you cut your own slots. The CNC DeWalt 4-pack is explicit about this. If your saw has a riving knife and the plate has no slot, either choose a plate with the slot, like the GUOJINJISM Delta pack, or keep the factory plate installed.
Thin plastic plates that flex. If a plate dishes downward under cutting pressure, a small piece can dip toward the blade. On the SKIL plate this is a documented complaint. A plate that is not flat is not doing its job, no matter how good the kerf is.
Everything else, straight ripping, crosscutting, sheet goods and finish work at 90 degrees, is where the insert earns its place.
Zero Clearance Insert Buying Guide
Five criteria decide whether you will be happy with a plate. Work through them in this order and the fitment will take care of itself.
1. Measure the throat opening, not the table. Take the factory plate out and measure length, width and thickness. Inserts are cut for a specific opening, and a plate that is a fraction oversize can be trimmed while one that is undersize cannot be used. If you are still choosing a machine, our cabinet table saw guide covers the throat setups most common on the saws people buy inserts for.
2. Choose the material for how hard you work. High-density phenolic is rigid, dimensionally stable and quiet, and it is the best all-round choice for heavy use. MDF is stiff and machines beautifully, which is why the Delta 3-pack uses it, but edges chip if you drop the plate and it can dull a blade faster than a hardwood. UHMW is the most forgiving material and the least rigid, which makes it right for older saws and light work. Hardwood and bamboo sit between the two. Thin plastic is the weakest option, as the SKIL reviews show.
3. Check the adjustment hardware honestly. Leveling screws, lateral adjustment screws, a rear anti-lift pin and a positive latch all make a plate easier to keep flat. A blank plate with a loose set screw and no side adjustment will drift, and no amount of sanding fixes that. This is the single biggest quality difference between the plates here.
4. Confirm blade and accessory compatibility. Does the plate handle thin kerf, standard kerf and dado sets? Does it have a riving knife slot? Does it have a precut blade pocket for a retracted blade? Answer these before you order, not after.
5. Buy more than one if you can. A second plate lets you set a kerf for your rip blade and a different kerf for your crosscut blade, and it means you never have to choose between zero clearance and the ability to run a dado. Multi-packs in this roundup, like the CNC 4-pack and the two Delta 3-packs, exist for exactly that reason. It is also the workflow experienced woodworkers describe on forums: two plates, one for the insert and one kept as a working factory plate.
On maintenance, a short weekly check beats a long conversation. Look at the plate with a straightedge, confirm the hold-down screws are tight after a few blade changes, and glance at your blade for phenolic pitch. A plate that is cleaned of pitch and a blade that is cleaned of buildup will both last longer.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a zero clearance insert on a table saw?
A zero clearance insert is a replacement throat plate with a slot cut to match your saw blade kerf exactly, so no gap remains between the blade and the table surface.
What is the benefit of a zero clearance table saw insert?
It supports the workpiece right up to the cut line, which removes most tear-out on the bottom face, and it stops small offcuts from dropping into the table and kicking back.
Why don’t table saws come with zero clearance inserts?
Because the factory plate has to work with different blade diameters and, on many saws, tilt for bevel cuts. A fixed kerf slot cannot do both, so manufacturers ship a wider, more flexible plate instead.
How can I make a zero clearance insert for my table saw?
Take a spare factory plate, lay UHMW tape across the slot and run the blade through it, or cut a blank from MDF, birch plywood or hardwood and cut the kerf with the saw itself. A 3D printed insert works for saws with no aftermarket parts.
Does zero clearance tape work?
Yes. UHMW tape applied to a spare factory throat plate closes the kerf and gives most of the tear-out improvement for very little money. One forum commenter reports a single roll lasting more than 25 years.
Are zero clearance inserts worth it?
For anyone ripping thin strips or cutting plywood and sheet goods, yes. The bottom face comes out clean enough to skip sanding, and small offcuts stop dropping into the blade path.
Conclusion
The best zero clearance insert for your table saw is the one that fits your throat opening, sits flat, and locks down without drifting. Start with the Bosch TS1005 if you own a Bosch 4100-series saw, because it has the widest proven track record at 4.4 stars across 832 reviews. The Peachtree phenolic is the better all-round buy if you can find a plate cut for your machine, and the CNC Custom Designs 4-pack is the smartest move if you own a listed DeWalt and want one plate per blade.
Measure your factory plate before you order, keep a second plate for bevels and dados, and expect one evening of fitting on install day. Do that and the bottom face of your cuts will look like the top of them. These picks hold up as we move through 2026 and beyond, so check the fitment list above before anything else.